overviews and print resources

this post is a collection of items that provide historical overviews & print resources.

• Gendered Fashion, Power, and Sexuality
  A History of Women's Lingerie from Random History
  "From the Old French linge, meaning “linen,” the term “lingerie” was originally introduced into the English language as a euphemism for scandalous underclothing." This usage as slang is not confirmed in other sources.
  "The history of lingerie, then, is a history of gendered fashion, power, and sexuality." Which is concise manner of the subject as possible.
  

  Ancient Lingerie: From Egypt to Rome
  
  It is impossible to say exactly when the history of lingerie started, but it seems that the first record comes from ancient Egypt around 3000 B.C. In general, clothing was a status symbol for the Egyptians, and higher-ranking women would wear narrow tunics as undergarments that started below the chest, extended to the ankles, and were supported by a crosswise shoulder strap. Sometimes they would draw tunics around to the front of the body to mold the waist. Slave and servants wore no undergarments; they wore only simple loin cloths or went naked. Several female terra cotta figurines found throughout the ancient Near East appear to wear several different types of undergarments. One of them is a Babylonian girl from about 3000 B.C. who is wearing what might be considered briefs that look as though it could have been derived from the loin cloth. Another female figure from 2000 B.C., found in Crete, depicts the first recorded corset-like bodice and crinoline (a caged or hoped underskirt) that shoves the bare breast upward (Ewing 1972). Both are interesting in that they show similarities to lingerie eons later in the western world.
  
  In classical Greece, several female statues wear a crossed band over their shoulders and across the breast, as in the famous statue of the charioteer at Delphi. The Odyssey and Iliad mention women’s undergarments, as does Herodotus, Aristophanes, and the later Hellenistic writer Lacian (Ewing 1972). In these texts, women are described as wearing a band of linen known as the zoné around the waist and lower torso to shape and control them. Other Greek words also appear to describe women’s undergarments, including the apodesmos (meaning a band, breast band, or girdle), mastodeton (or breast band, which actually flattens the bust) and, occasionally, mastodesmos (with a similar meaning) (Ewing 1972). These garments appear to presage the bra as well as the corset.
  
  ancient bikinis
  A famous Roman mosaic from A.D. 400 shows several women wearing what appear to be bikinis or briefs
  Roman women followed Greek fashion closely. The Roman poet Martial describes a cestus, which is similar to the Greek zoné but wider, and Cicero also mentions a strophium or breast band. Other Roman terms describing women’s underclothing include the mamillere and fascia, which were tight bands of cloth that primarily supported the bust rather than the abdomen. A famous mosaic from A.D. 400 shows several women wearing what appear to be bikinis or briefs (Ewing 1972). For both the Greeks and the Romans, underclothing (which sometimes was worn as outer clothing as well) was designed more for function than exclusively aesthetic reasons.



• Undercover Sylvia Giles examines the story of lingerie, and its link to recent history. Expanded from issue 22 of Lucire. discusses briefly the changes in women's social roles reflected in their foundation garments.
  


• References
  
  Ewing, Elizabeth. 1976. Underwear: A History. New York, NY: Theatre Arts Books.
  
  Kunzle, David. 2004. Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing and Other Forms of Body –Sculpture. Thrupp, UK: Sutton Publishing Limited.
  
  Steele, Valerie. 2001. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
  Workman, Nancy. 1996. “From Victorian to Victoria’s Secret: The Foundations of Modern Erotic Wear. Journal of Popular Culture. 30.2, 61-73.
  Alac, Patrik. 2001. Bikini: A Cultural History. Parkstone Press USA, ltd.
  Lencek, Lena and Bosker, Gideon. 1989. Making Waves: Swimsuits and the Undressing of America. Chronicle Books.
  The Lingerie Handbook (Paperback)
  by Rebecca Apsan (Author), Sarah Stark (Author) # Paperback: 186 pages. Publisher: Workman Publishing Company (October 20, 2006). Language: English. ISBN-10: 0761143238
  Margaret A. Lowe
  An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality (review)
  Journal of Social History - Volume 42, Number 3, Spring 2009, pp. 793-795

Wonderbra links, company history & assorted items

This post is a collection of items related to Wonderbra history. There is no attempt to organize these items.

• University of Michigan student case study
• Wikipedia article
• Madeleine Begun Kane, Humor Columnist, WONDERBRA SONG
• Official Site

books & vintage lingerie dating

Spent some tired energy this morning & gained some good energy. It seems I am a collector--and not much else. Librarian of my little corner of the internet. Here are a couple things I'm collecting & organizing--books & vintage lingerie resources. (Both of these books were ordered yesterday & should be here in a couple weeks.)

• Janet Reger: Her Story

Product Description
Janet Reger's success rode on the crest of the sixties' fashion boom and all that was perceived worldwide as the swinging London scene. Her name became synonymous with fine lingerie. Janet's marriage to Peter Reger, the man she fell in love with when they were young students working on a kibbutz in Israel, was the vital ingredient in her business liefe: she the designer and creative force, he the business co-ordinator. It was the perfect partnership. Then, at the peak of success, came collapse and liquidation: her business in ruins, her marriage over. Later, tragically, Peter was to commit suicide. Today, Janet Reger is back in business. This is the tale of a woman in a man's world. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

• Hardcover: 288 pages
• Publisher: Chapmans Publishers (October 24, 1991)
• ISBN-10: 1855925346
• ISBN-13: 978-1855925342
• Shipping Weight: 1.7 pounds

Chastity in Focus. by Janet Reger

• Hardcover: 220 pages
• Publisher: Quartet Books (September 1981)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0704321513
• ISBN-13: 978-0704321519

Seeing Past Black & White Film To The True Colors Of Vintage Lingerie was posted by Here's Looking Like You, Kid as a remembrance/exploration of vintage lingerie (1920s-1930s especially) and the colors enjoyed by those who wore/watched it worn.

I enjoyed reading her post in the middle of last night while waiting for some other things to happen--namely, I've begun using a wireless modem (aircard) to access the internet and company servers through the cellphone network--this is what the government sold off last year & why analog television signals went away & digital radio/tv is being pushed so hard--and the speed reminds me of dial-up!

Anyway, here was a post featuring beautiful underwear & pointing to some resources that may help date and organize when a garment was worn. And since this blog is about collecting those resources and pointers, it seems appropriate to include this reference.

The Sports Bra

In 1972, Title IX of the Equal Education Amendment mandated that institutions receiving federal funding had to spend equal amounts of money on men’s and women’s sports programs. By the late 70’s, over 6 million women were running, hooked on the feeling of health, strength, and endorphins. In 1977, runner Lisa Lindahl was a 28-year-old graduate student at the University of Vermont working as a secretary. She started with a list of features necessary to achieve comfort and support in a running bra, and would not bind or chafe. Then she turned to her childhood friend, costume designer Polly Smith. They were working on a prototype when Lisa’s husband walked into the room and jokingly pulled a jockstrap over his head and around his chest. Lightning struck. Polly fashioned a model constructed of two jock straps sewn together. After a test run with Hinda Miller, Polly’s assistant, Lisa knew it was time to refine the idea and go to market.

Lisa and Hinda built the business up for 12 years, creating a nationally known brand, Jogbra Sportsbras. In 1990, the company was sold to Playtex Apparel, and then to Sara Lee Corp. Miller left in 1997 after serving as President of the Champion Jogbra division.

In 1999, Olympic soccer star Brandi Chastin (pictured above) made the plain black sports bra a national conversation.

Now a generic name like Kleenex, Rollerblade, and Scotch tape, Jogbra has been honored by its placement in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Smithsonian Museum. Sportsbras generate $500 million in retail sales and are recognized as having as big a role as Title IX in increasing women’s participation in sports and fitness.

In 2008, the sports bra was picked as an all-time top fashion innovation. "Comprising a $300 million annual industry, sports bras account for roughly 10 percent of the bra market."( April 3rd, 2009)

Nancy Howard's guide to the sports bra covers several topics including anatomy, measurement & fit, consideration of type of activity while wearing the bra, bra care and construction.

For more on the development of the sports bra, including a timeline of innovations read Kelly Bastone's article, The Sports Bra Turns 30.

Types of sports bras:

Compression Sports Bras are a one piece style that you pull on over your head ;

Encapsulated or Natural-Shaping Sports Bras encapsulates each breast in an individual cup instead of compressing both breasts together as in the previous example.;

Compression/Encapsulation Sports Bras combine the previous styles by encapsulating each breast and compressing the breast tissue against the chest.

A woman's breasts are composed primarily of adipose (fatty) tissue, mammary glands, connective tissue, and the Cooper’s ligament, which keeps the breast firm and prevents sagging. Because the underlying chest muscles do not support breast tissue, exercising in anything other than a well-fitted sports bra can stretch the Cooper's ligament, leading to greater sagging and even pain during exercise.

"The Department of Exercise and Sport Science at the University of Wisconsin, La Crosse, conducted a study to evaluate five sports bras designed specifically for large-breasted women. Commissioned by The American Council on Exercise, the study recruited 10 women between 20 and 45 years old who played various sports, including volleyball, basketball, swimming, walking, running, yoga, cycling, hiking, rock climbing, tennis and aerobic dance. Dr. John Porcari led the study, which concluded that the encapsulated sports bra offered the most comfort and support. Female athletes’ common practice of wearing two compression bras at once produced more difficulty than just wearing one encapsulated style bra. The combination bra, she said, works almost as well as the encapsulated style, but it rates lower in comfort." (Little About)

LessBounce.com presents some additional information on the research behind women's breast health and exercise.

trends in bra size

An issue in trends that I find interesting is the sizing of clothing. Bra size is a topic that gets highlighted periodically & is used to measure changes in average body size over time.

Your Bra Size: The Truth May (Pleasantly) Surprise You presents (NY Times, April 2009) that bra cup sizes are changing. The reasons: 1) band size is getting smaller for a better fit around the ribs, 2) body fat is increasing, 3) breast augmentation surgery retains its popularity, 4) an aging population relates to changing bust size, and 5) women are getting fitted for their bras & not just buying what they always buy. They also remark that the psychology of a smaller band size (might feel thinner) and a larger cup size (feel like a tramp, feel more attractive) is important for consumers and retailers.

In Australia, the trend is also to larger breast sizes. (FOX news, April 2009). Up to 40 percent of Ausie women now buy bras with a cup size of DD or higher, new figures from lingerie suppliers show. In the 1950s, the most common bra-cup size was a B -- three sizes below a DD. Interestingly, while in Los Angeles and New York women are purchasing larger breasts, Australian women are opting for more breast reductions.

Reductions are related to larger breasts due to increased fatty tissue present. "Sydney cardiologist Ross Walker said artificial oestrogens found in foods, plastics and cosmetics had also contributed to the growth spurt. Oestrogen in contraceptive pills also spurred the growth of breast tissue, Family Planning NSW research director Edith Weisberg said. "I think the higher-dose pills could, because the oestrogen causes development of the breast tissue," she said."

The Times of India reports on a British study (April 2009) "of 1,000 women showed that last year, the average bra size for British women under 30 was 36 inches, but now it has thinned to just 34. Meanwhile, the average cup size has increased from a C to a shapely D, reports the Sun. A spokeswoman for cosmetic surgery clinic Birkdale, which conducted the study, put the changes down to women taking more exercise, cutting down on booze and fast food — and simply buying the correct bra size, spurred on by TV makeover shows."

STATS: "At Wacoal America, one of the largest bra makers in the country, 36DD is on track to replace 36D as its most popular size in 2009. (Three years ago it was 36C.) Bare Necessities, an online lingerie retailer, said 34DD was its No. 10 best-selling size last year, up from No. 17 in 2002." (NY Times).

BRA DOS AND DON'TS

• Do get fitted regularly Always try a bra on before buying. A correctly fitting bra is firm but not tight, doesn't creep up at the back, and is comfortable. Underwires should be clear of the breast tissue.
• Do use a laundry bag when washing your bras wRemember body shape changes as we get older
• Don't expect one bra size to be the same for every bra
• Don't wear an incorrectly fitting bra hanging over the top of a cup means the cup is too small, not filling the cup means it is too big. Creeping up the back means the chest band is too loose.

the Skong, trends & other notes

The Skong debuted in Fall 2008 fashion collections. Here is a gallery.

Style Guru is not impressed: "Only describable as a sore defeat to the whole purpose of the thong’s existence, the Skong is as much a fashion anomaly as it is a retrograded movement of designers who just cannot rake their brains enough to invent something radically original. Drawing shamelessly from the skirted bikinis made popular in the middle of the last century, the Skong is basically a feeble attempt at making a beachwear item look less dated. Since the skimpy and sleazy look is on its way out, the thong has lost much of its appeal in beach/pool party circles. I guess some people out there still think they can redeem that old look by adding a bit of skirting in the front. Unfortunately, it ends up looking just plain tired and a little porn star-ish which unless you’re going for THAT look isn’t such a great thing!"

• Purchase [singer] Fergie’s Panties To Do Your Part For Charity: "An impressive group of celebrities, including Fergie, have donated autographed underwear to help raise money for the New North London Synagogue. The undies are being auctioned off on eBay for charity through March 31, 2009."

This is a great idea to bring attention to a cause, raise some service dollars & have some fun at the same time.

From Trendsetter:

• Top 30 Underwear and Swimwear Innovations in 2008
• Top 20 Innovative Underwear and Lingerie Trends in 2007 (GALLERY)
• 
  

Janet Reger Lingerie

Janet Reger (née Philips; b. September 30, 1935, d. London East End - March 14, 2005 at 630p) remembered by Christine McCarthy and Helen William, PA and Vogue UK and The Scotsman

JANET REGER has been the first name in ladies designer lingerie and nightwear for over 30 years, redefining sexy underwear, and luxury designer lingerie. The ultimate expression of seductive glamour, Janet Reger designer lingerie is the definitive romantic gift for wives and girlfriends, a byword for sexy underwear to men and women everywhere. Fine craftsmanship and luxurious fabrics combined with fresh innovative design is the continuing signature of the janet Reger brand - visible in every item from bra to g-string, from French Knickers to camisole.

Luxury lingerie in silks & satins, "Naughty Janet" with "cutout" bras--shelf bras leaving the breast uncovered, key-holed panties and other sexy items, and tennis outfits are featured.
"The full story of Janet Reger, a UK lingerie designer, reads like a fairytale."

In 1953, Janet Reger presented a matching set of designer lingerie-bras, knickers and a suspender belt-as her final year presentation at the Leicester College of Technology. She then went on to work as an in-house designer for various swimwear, underwear and lingerie manufacturers until starting her own line. Reger's ability to coordinate the cloth with the cut, the line with the fit, and the fashion with practicality and comfort was the key to her success. She always searched for the underlying idea of the garment and then worked out how it was best cut and made. From the beginning, she coordinated matching garments, a fundamental departure from the standards of the time when under-garments were black or white, with perhaps the exception for salmon pink corsets. The Janet Reger brand has become the first name in ladies designer lingerie and nightwear for over 30 years. (source)

[more from lingerie-uncovered.com]

The brand has been carried forward by daughter, Aliza Reger, Location: London, UK. (source)

Announced 11 Feb 2009:

The Janet Reger lingerie brand has signed with The Beanstalk Group to extend its brand into a variety of lifestyle categories, including health and beauty, loungewear, plus-size lingerie and resortwear.

"We are so excited to be working with Beanstalk to strategically extend the Janet Reger lifestyle brand into inspiring new areas," says Aliza Reger, chief executive officer of Janet Reger. "The brand evokes a feeling of romanticism and indulgence and I look forward to building on the existing brand presence to capture new audiences and markets."

The existing licensing program covers watches, eyewear and bed linen. The core lingerie collection itself sells in top-end boutiques and department stores throughout the U.K., Europe and the Middle East.

In addition, the diffusion line Reger by Janet Reger is part of the Designers at Debenhams program.

(source)