Showing posts with label swimwear. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swimwear. Show all posts

Sunday, June 28, 2009

monokini


Gernreich’s monokini consisted of a black knit suit that extended from the midriff to the upper thigh, employing two thin black straps to hold it in place over the shoulders. According to folklore, the model, Peggy Moffit, had only agreed to model the extremely controversial garment if her husband photographed it.


Laetitia Casta (right)wears a vintage 1967 Greneich monokini for Sports Illustrated in 2000.

Ancient Egyptian and Greek art showing women in water scenes wearing short cotton skirts that were waisted just below the bust and held up by the same two straps present early versions of the modern monokini. There have also been a number of much earlier undergarments and tummy control devices that look identical in outward appearance.

The Traditional Monokini

The traditional monokini has a rather interesting history. It emerged in an era of American history when the country was on the turning point between the placid, conservative 1950s and the turbulent, explosive 1960s.

Into this climate, European designer Rudi Gernreich presented his new swimsuit design in June of 1964 to mixed review from fashion critics, government officials, and church dignitaries. What he did was suggest wearing the total outfit to make a political statement.

Rudi Gernreich's intention was to 'free' the female breast in an age that forced breasts into unnatural shaped cups. While not often considered, the other part to Gernreich’s monokini principle was simplicity. A garment should have minimal construction and detailing to ensure the body remains the focal point.

Gernreich invented the name, and the word monokini is first recorded in English in 1964.

Despite the reaction of fashion critics and church officials, shoppers purchased the monokini in record numbers that summer, though very few monokinis were ever worn in public. By the end of the season, Gernreich had sold 3000 swimsuits at $24 a piece, which meant a tidy profit for such a minuscule amount of fabric. It was not very successful in the USA, but took the rest of the world by storm in the early 70s.

As a side note: Gernreich also credits himself with having invented the thong, something else that is shown in the art of many ancient societies and was at the time a current Japanese undergarment.

The Modern Monokini

Arguably the modern monokini is regarded as the sexiest swimsuit a woman could wear. It looks nothing like Rudi Gernreich’s 1964 monokini (see image) which, while astoundingly controversial, was technically nothing more than a maillot cut off just below the bust with a couple of supporting straps. The term monokini refers to a bikini bottom held in place by two straps which, at least partially, cover the breasts.

Like all swimsuits, the monokini bottom portion of the swimsuit can vary in cut. Some have g-string style backs, while others provide full coverage of the rear. The bottom of the monokini may be high cut, reaching to the waist, with high cut legs, or may be a much lower cut, exposing the belly button. The modern monokini takes its design from the bikini, and is also described as ‘more of a cut-out one-piece swimsuit’ with designers using fabric, mesh, chain, or other materials to link the top and bottom sections together, though the appearance may not be functional, it can certainly turn a few heads!

While none dare like the original, sex still sells.
Summer 2009 features the monokini in a variety of over the shoulder and cut-out versions.

Friday, January 23, 2009

newly discovered vintage lingerie resources

  • add Glamoursurf to the vintage resources list. They have a great list of vintage swimwear labels to help with dating.
  • Vintage Nightgowns is a resource with pictorial indices for Olga, Vanity Fair and other vintage nightgowns.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Random Bikini History resources

Bikini Science is a comprehensive textbook on the development and variety of the swimsuit. Since swimwear and underwear are so closely related this site is a good source of information. It is very well done, covering the subject with depth & breadth.

Sky News, a UK television news program, produced a web piece for the bikini's 50th birthday. It includes an overview of the development of the bikini. Included are protest bikinis--some made of lettuce or flowers.

TIME magazine produced this photo essay to celebrate the bikini.

R is for Rudi Gernreich is a post on the designer of the topless bikini.
No-Bra Bra & See-Throughs. No designer these days reveals more than California's Rudi Gernreich, 45, the man who shocked the world in 1964 with his topless bathing suit. No stylesetter has capitalized with more flair on the current vogue for exposure; but even his critics grant that Rudi's topless was only an incident in his rapid rise to leadership as the most way-out, far-ahead designer in the U.S. When he was inducted into Fashion's Hall of Fame this fall the sixth U.S. designer to be so honored he was hailed by the selection committee as "one of the fabulous originals," the designer who has been so consistently a front runner that "like World War II's Kilroy, wherever one looks in fashion, it seems 'Gernreich was here.' "

Gernreich (which he pronounces to rhyme with earn quick) made his mark by being not only the first U.S. designer to raise skirts well above the knee but also the first with such trend-setting styles as colored stockings, now so overwhelmingly popular, which he showed as part of what he called "the total look," with dress, stockings and sometimes a hood all matching. Along the way, he has introduced vinyl clothes developed out of a material that looks completely "today" and a series of freeing designs aimed at giving back to the female body its natural look and curves, including his knit tank suits, his No-Bra bra, and sheer, see-through nylon blouses.

Wicked Alternative. For last month's spring showings, Gernreich arrived togged out in one of his favorite zippered Pierre Cardin "cosmocorps" suits, looking every bit as futuristic as his fashions. Standing fully erect, his 5-ft. 6-in., 138-lb. figure poised with a lithe dancers grace, he told the buyers and press: "A woman today can be anything she wants to be a Gainsborough or a Reynolds or a Reynolds Wrap." Then came a preview of the provocative choices ahead. First was a series of simple knit dresses simple except for the clear vinyl bands that saucily bared the navel and the underslope of the bosom. Nor were the bathing suits that followed any letdown. Clear vinyl was at work again to make them the nudest since the topless.

Gernreich confronted the problem of the miniskirt head on. Tights may take care of modesty in the wintertime, believes Rudi, but for summer they are simply too hot. "Since skirts as such are really disappearing, they have to have a different look," he announced, and proceeded to prescribe either puffy bloomers or Siamese skirts with a security panel wrapped between the legs. For braver women, he offered a wicked alternative: a black bikini bottom to match the briefest tent dress ever. (Up, Up & Away, Time Magazine, Friday, Dec. 01, 1967)

Peggy Moffit modeling the famous Rudi Gernrich “No Bra” bra--"Vintage mid 60's Rudi Gernreich 'No Bra' Bra, size 32C. Classic nylon bra with adjustable shoulder straps and 3 adjustments to the size at the back hook. Looks and feels if your wearing absolutely nothing. Soft and semi sheer."
sources Hippie Goddess, Glamoursurf

[added 20 April 2008, revised 09 April 2009]